Third Time's a Charm

 

Gobsmacked. I'm usually not at a loss for words, but this was all I could conjure after my first two hours in Prague.

I arrived around 6:30 PM, dragged myself and my 75 pounds of luggage up the hill and out of Hlavni Station, rounded the corner to my flat and this view:  The Czech National Museum.  Wow.

An hour later I embarked on what's become my Day One routine in each city:  find the gym, buy groceries and a commuter pass, toss in a load of laundry.  Ready for an early, energized Day Two.

The gym is one block off Wenceslas Square. After securing my 10-day pass I continued a few blocks west and found myself in the middle of Old Town Square.  I spun around in a circle, jaw dropped and simply said "wow."

I was gobsmacked.  When we Americans talk about art and architecture in terms of centuries, it's a short conversation.  In the half mile walk from the National Museum to Old Town Square, Prague gives us 5-6 centuries of architecture.  At least!  Wow.

Thus I'm going to cover Prague in 2 parts.  This post will be all eye candy, little copy.  The follow-up will focus on Prague from a distance, below the surface, and the places and faces I found that add to its unique, alluring character.

Enjoy and if you've missed a few countries along the way, catch up on prior posts here.

Why Third Time's a Charm?

The current Czech Republic is the nation's third attempt at democracy.  The first Republic combined Slovakia, Moravia, Bohemia and other small regions in 1918 post WWI.  Twenty years later in WWII, regions of the country fell under Hitler's control and the republic charter was abandoned.  Czechs fought alongside Russia and the western Allies and earned back their independence, reuniting with Slovakia in 1945.  This second attempt was short-lived; the country came under Communist control in 1948.  Third time?  In 1989, the Velvet Revolution and fall of Communism when Czechoslovakia, a free and independent democratic state was again established.  In 1992, the "on again, off again" Czechs and Slovaks agreed peacefully to separate. For 30 years and counting the Czech Republic remains a democracy.  

Why does that matter here?  Because this turbulence is seen in so many faces, spaces and places in Prague: which buildings were protected, which neighborhoods were destroyed, how new buildings were designed.  During one of my walking tours the guide shared that while most Czechs embrace the country's western-leaning ways, they are a superstitious bunch.  It contributes to their fierce support for Ukraine as well as the love of folklore that Good King Wenceslas may one day come down from the mountain where he sleeps to rule the country to even greater glory.  Fascinating!

Old Town Square and Old Town Hall

Old Town is known as the part of the city built on a city.  Old Town Hall dates back to 1338, however in my next post we'll go under ground to learn about the 13th century houses and canals below these buildings and still in use today.

Church of our Lady before Tyn, 14th century (below)

Town Hall main entrance ceiling mural and wall mosaics

Gothic Tower.  What goes up....

...must come down.

Views from the Tower

The third floor state rooms range from late Gothic to Renaissance and Baroque. 

The rotating figures in the Astronomical Clock, c.1410.  Still ringing on the hour, drawing crowds and applause.

Enjoy the moment in this short video clip.

Prague Castle

Sitting atop the hill across the Vltava River is Prague Castle, with St Vitus Cathedral its most prominent structure.  Several government buildings are still in use.  I enjoyed catching the (mini) changing of the guards, the 287-step ascent to the top of the cathedral's South Tower, and the stroll back in time down Golden Lane, the tiny homes and businesses which supported the residents hundreds of years ago.

St Wenceslas is buried in the center of the cathedral.  The royal crypt under the cathedral includes the remains of Charles IV, Wenceslas IV and several other royals.

Take a quick 360-tour of the interior:

The South Tower.  The views were worth the climb!

Old Royal Palace

St. George's Basilica, the oldest surviving church in Prague, first established in 920 AD by Prince Vratislav.  Several structures and artifacts from the original building remain in tact today.

Golden Lane, tiny homes occupied by castle workers, goods and services providers.

 Technically 2-story homes...if you were no more than 5 feet tall.

Castle grounds perimeter and entrance to the dungeons.  Disturbing images of the Inquisition Museum in Carcassonne came flooding back, so I passed.

The Charles Bridge

Built during King Charles II's rule in the 14th century to replace the original Judith Bridge built in the mid 1100s which had been badly damaged in a flood.  It was the only way to cross the river (other than by boat) until the mid 1800s.  The original medieval style stone bridge was later adorned with Baroque-era statues, most of which today are replicas of the originals.  One of the most iconic sites in Prague and provided spectacular views of the river.

Vyšehrad Fortress and Saints Peter and Paul Basilica

I ventured south of the city center to this fortress founded in 1070 by Vratislav II which includes the Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul, a sculpture garden and small cemetery where several famous Czech citizens, including composer Antonin Dvorák, are buried.  It was a lovely side trip with amazing views of the river and Prague Castle in the distance.

The basilica is one of the oldest running churches in the city.  Little of the original early 11th century structure remains; it was partially rebuilt in the mid 13th century and the facade was fully updated in the late 19th century.  The result is an overwhelming and eclectic mix of Renaissance, Gothic, Baroque and Art Nouveau.  Frescoes adorn every pillar, arch and most of the ceilings.  It poured rain during my visit.  Not a bad place to hunker down until the sun returned.

Entering the fortress

Around the perimeter of the cemetery

The dome above the altar is considered one of the most important pieces of Renaissance art publicly accessible today.

A fresco of Saint Helen (my mom's name 😁)

Gobsmacked, right?  Seemingly every turn from the city's center to its periphery revealed another gem, another story, often spanning centuries of Czech life.  

Stay tuned for my next post where I share more of the human stories, dark and enlightening, and I ditch the cobblestone for water and forests.  And if you're enjoying the ride, or have feedback, please reach out or leave a comment!